Mad Rock Lifeguard

Mad Rock Lifeguard

$62

Mad Rock Lifeguard

Mad Rock Lifeguard:leading global athletic footwear and apparel retailer. So this is a secondary review after spending more time with the Lifeguard:After doing more lead climbing with the Lifeguard the performance has gotten much better. I have also been able to compare it more to a GriGri. Using a 9.9mm rope the operation is butter smooth and the feel for lowering is much better. I have gotten to master control of the rope in my brake hand and can hold it off to the side (like you would with a GriGri) and control braking while balancing the pull on the lowering handle. With larger gym ropes or larger lead ropes there is still a tendency to have too much friction which can lock up the cam when paying out slack quickly. However, with my 9.9 slack payout is great, and the cam still locks up very positively with a load on it and does not slip one bit and allows for easier braking when a climber needs a rest. More an more people in my gym are taking to it for its size, excellent construction, and easy use over a GriGri. I still don't think it deserves 5 stars because of its less than perfect performance with larger diameter ropes, but I'm happier with the Lifeguard than I was after using it the first few sessions. Give it some time and learn how to use it properly and it will pay off.Original Review:I really want to give this five stars but I can't because I keep going back to my ATC and this ends up sitting in my bag as a backup or for anyone that forgets a belay device.Pros:1. It's smaller and lighter than a GriGri2. Construction is very solid and the metal handle feels very sturdy.3. The cam lock-up is very tight and holds climbers very well and engages at just the right point. Slack can be payed out without it locking up but with adequate force or a fall it locks tight and does not slip.4: Cool factor. Everyone that sees it has to ask what it is and if they can use it.Cons:1. Lowering a climber takes very precise control of the handle. Because the handle is short to fit the footprint of the device it is difficult to grasp it with a full hand and control decent. Additionally lowering seems to be either too slow or too fast, finding the sweet spot is very difficult for me.2. When lowering, unlike a GriGri the rope has to be directly in front of the device for it to feed back into the device smoothly. If held off to the side it creates too much drag and there is no wear plate for the rope to glide over.Summary:Unfortunately I am going to stick with my tried and true ATC and this will be my backup belay device. An ATC I feel gives me greater control and feedback. I think the Lifeguard is well designed and would last many years of climbing and use. Perhaps I have not given it enough time after about a dozen climbing sessions of testing, and if that changes this review will be modified, but for now it is not my #1 belay device.shopping,denver mall,new orleans mallMad Rock Lifeguard
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Product description

The Lifeguard belay device with assisted braking is compact, light and durable. Our new device has been constructed using hot forged aircraft grade aluminum and stainless steel for increased durability. The Lifeguard can be used with classic belay techniques with single ropes ranging from 8.9mm to 11mm for lead and top-rope climbing.

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Mad Rock Lifeguard

Mad Rock Lifeguard:leading global athletic footwear and apparel retailer. So this is a secondary review after spending more time with the Lifeguard:After doing more lead climbing with the Lifeguard the performance has gotten much better. I have also been able to compare it more to a GriGri. Using a 9.9mm rope the operation is butter smooth and the feel for lowering is much better. I have gotten to master control of the rope in my brake hand and can hold it off to the side (like you would with a GriGri) and control braking while balancing the pull on the lowering handle. With larger gym ropes or larger lead ropes there is still a tendency to have too much friction which can lock up the cam when paying out slack quickly. However, with my 9.9 slack payout is great, and the cam still locks up very positively with a load on it and does not slip one bit and allows for easier braking when a climber needs a rest. More an more people in my gym are taking to it for its size, excellent construction, and easy use over a GriGri. I still don't think it deserves 5 stars because of its less than perfect performance with larger diameter ropes, but I'm happier with the Lifeguard than I was after using it the first few sessions. Give it some time and learn how to use it properly and it will pay off.Original Review:I really want to give this five stars but I can't because I keep going back to my ATC and this ends up sitting in my bag as a backup or for anyone that forgets a belay device.Pros:1. It's smaller and lighter than a GriGri2. Construction is very solid and the metal handle feels very sturdy.3. The cam lock-up is very tight and holds climbers very well and engages at just the right point. Slack can be payed out without it locking up but with adequate force or a fall it locks tight and does not slip.4: Cool factor. Everyone that sees it has to ask what it is and if they can use it.Cons:1. Lowering a climber takes very precise control of the handle. Because the handle is short to fit the footprint of the device it is difficult to grasp it with a full hand and control decent. Additionally lowering seems to be either too slow or too fast, finding the sweet spot is very difficult for me.2. When lowering, unlike a GriGri the rope has to be directly in front of the device for it to feed back into the device smoothly. If held off to the side it creates too much drag and there is no wear plate for the rope to glide over.Summary:Unfortunately I am going to stick with my tried and true ATC and this will be my backup belay device. An ATC I feel gives me greater control and feedback. I think the Lifeguard is well designed and would last many years of climbing and use. Perhaps I have not given it enough time after about a dozen climbing sessions of testing, and if that changes this review will be modified, but for now it is not my #1 belay device.shopping,denver mall,new orleans mallMad Rock Lifeguard